Day 24: Capital Reef National Park ( part 2 )

The road in the Capital Reef National Park snaked along the massive, 160 kilometers long wall of Capital Reef rock up the mountains in a series of long and lazy s-spins.

The paved road ended giving way to the dust road of the Capital Gorge. The road was rough but passable. In the end you arrive at the gravel parking area. Here the walking trail started.

Hiking along the wash at the very end of Capital Gorge. We followed the dry creek bed. Passed the old petroglyphs written on the walls and the Pioneer Register - a place with a series of names and dates of people traveling through the canyon from the later 1800´s and early 1900´s. We had no rush, stopped frequently and had plenty of time to admire the natural beauty around us.

Maciek.

Day 24: Capital Reef National Park ( part 1 )

Driving through the Southern Utah is like being constantly in the one big Natural Park. It is hard to find a road that does not dazzle you with the unforgettable scenery. Your eyes do not have time to rest ! And obviously it happened to us this morning as well. As soon as we stepped out of our hotel room at Best Western, Torrey we could admire the sensational views of the red cliffs of Henry Mountains just in front of our eyes. Then, after a good American breakfast at Red Cliffs Restaurant, we were ready to hit the Park. When you approach the Capital Reef from the East you drive through a deep gorge along the Freemont river. But when you come to the Park from the Western side ( as we did that morning ) you can fully appreciate and be impressed by its sheer rocky mass and glory of this 160 kilometers long wall of rock that runs through the desert north-south. I fell in love with the Park in an instant. But before we entered the main part of the Park we made a stop at the historic Barn and orchards in Mormon pioneer town of Fruita at the entrance of the Capital Reef National Park ( pictured above ). Here you can climb the ladder yourself, pick up the pears or apples and then leave 5 dollars at the special box. A self-service without the counter or salesman. This is the beauty of the "small town America". Maciek.

Day 23: Hiking the Leprechaun Slot Canyon

Following the river wash up and entering the Leprechaun Slot Canyon, Utah.

A few miles north of Glen Canyon and Lake Powell we stopped with a suggestion for stretching our legs. We intended to do some desert hiking. Our aim was a Leprechaun Slot Canyon. So we parked the car in a middle of the hot desert, got our gear and moved along. There was no living soul in the area. There was also no trail as such but, as instructed by the lady in the Tourist Office, it was easy to find your way. We simply followed the wash, which extended for about one mile from the main road. The walking was easy ( along the flat sandy winding river wash ) except from the heat: the sun was hitting us hard with its 34ºC. Features of the trail included miraculously curved sand rocks, high walls along the wash and finally the narrowing slot canyon. At the end of the canyon the path was so narrow that it was difficult to turn around. After and hour we got back to our car and hit the road again. We passed a village of Hanksville, turned west on U.S. 24 drove by the grayscape of Factory Butte hills and landed at Torrey, a nice little town, for a good night sleep. It was all an amazing day. Maciek.

Day 23: Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

U.S. highway 95 descending to the Glen Canyon and Hite Bridge.

Later that day we passed the National Bridges Monument. The unbelievably empty U.S. 95 road was cutting the red and orange painted rocks and canyons like a sharp knife as we headed north. Quite abruptly the road made a gentle descent to the Colorado river and reservoir. We arrived at Glen Canyon. In August the Colorado reservoir was almost empty. We parked the car went to see around.
Impounded behind the Glen Canyon Dam, waters of the Colorado River and tributaries are backed up almost 200 miles to form Lake Powell, the recreational focus of the park.


Maciek.

Day 23: Goosenecks State Park

Breathtaking views of the San Juan river meanders. Utah.

From Kayenta we got back north, passed again the Monument Valley and soon arrived at Utah again. Our first stop was Goosenecks State Park located close to a small village of Mexican Hat ( the name of the village is derived from a funny Mexican-hat-like rock standing nearby ). Here the San Juan river is surrounded by canyon walls more than 1000 feet high.
From the Park we headed north passing the Valley of Gods and later climbing the steep Moki Dugway ( amazing views down below ).


Date: August 26th, 2010.

Maciek.

Days 21 and 22: The Monument Valley and Kayenta

The Monument Valley overlook seen from US 163 road. Arizona/Utah border.

The Monument Valley is truly a magical and serene place and one of the highlights of our trip. The first look at the Valley from the North ( above ) numbs you. Perhaps "numb" is not a good word, it is rather a mixture of surprise, joy, thrill, humbleness, eagerness for adventure, awe and something more. Located on the Arizona-Utah border under the jurisdiction of the Navaho Indian tribe the Valley is "not-from-this-world" scenery.

Driving through the Monument Valley is like being inside the opening scene of the good old Western movie where lone John Wayne is riding his horse in the valley and from above the red mountain ridge the Indians are watching him closely. It is like going back to your childhood.

We have already visited the Monument Valley twice, in 2005 and 2007. This year it all happened somehow by accident. On the vast and deserted lands of Southern Utah it is hard to find a hotel. The only option we found that night was Kayenta, a desert community Indian town in Northern Arizona with trailer-type homes, gas stations, burger emporia, horses hanging on the streets, dust, wind, some souvenirs stores and a Holiday Inn ( where we stayed at night, tasted a nice sweet Navajo bread and ate at Sonic drive through ).

So that night we had to make extra 50 miles South to get to Kayenta. But it was all worth it. The red flat landscape is dotted with majestic rectangular rocks with sharp blue sky above it. This is definitely one of the "must-see" places before you die.

Date: August 25th and 26th, 2010.

Maciek

Day 21: From Moab through Blanding to Kayenta ( part 3 )

Owachomo natural 35 meters long and 1 meter thick bridge.

Natural Bridges National Monument

preserves some of the finest examples of natural stone architecture in the southwest. On a tree-covered mesa next to deep sandstone canyons, three natural bridges formed when meandering streams slowly cut through the canyon walls. In honor of the Native Americans that made this area their home, the bridges are named "Kachina," "Owachomo" and "Sipapu."

Maciek.

Day 21: From Moab through Blanding to Kayenta ( part 2 )

The U.D.95 road 30 miles west of Blanding. The red rock Comb Ridge on the right.

A long straight empty road runs across semi-desert Southern Utah. That early afternoon we passed the Comb Ridge on our way to Natural Brigdes National Monument.


Date: August 25th, 2010.

Maciek

Day 21: From Moab through Blanding to Kayenta ( part 1 )

The road to the Canyonlands N.P. ( needles district ).

In the morning we departed rather early driving south on the U.S. 191. After a couple of miles we made our first stop at "Hole in the rock" shop. It was a funny place with lots of garbage and memorabilia to buy. We kind of liked it. Then we hit the road again. From U.S. 191 we turned left ( in the place where a beautiful Church Rock is ) to Scenic Road 211 to sightsee the Southern part of the Canyonlands National Park. The road to the Visitors Center was long - over 30 miles, but not in the second boring. We stopped at the Newspaper Rock to admire some beautiful ancient Indian Rock Writing and then proceeded until we arrived the the Big Spring Canyon Overlook. This is the heart of Colorado Plateau - a vastness and wilderness of red, brown and orange rocks all in very strange shapes covering the visible land. Millions of years of erosion have transformed this area into hundreds of canyons, gorges, mesas, fins, arches and spires. This is the spirit of Wild West. To a large degree the area is untrammeled even today - the roads are mostly unpaved ( due to the local government decions no new roads will be constructed ever to protect the enviroment ), the trails are primitive, its river free flowing and no construction allowed. And there is one thing more about it: the unnerving silence. The deep canyons seem to swallow every sound. So when you get out of the car it is all about only two senses: you FEEL the heat, you SEE the beauty, but you HEAR no sound.
The Canyonland is a wild America.

Maciek.

Day 20: The Canyonlands ( part II )

An old railway crossing.

In the evening when my son Lucas and Agnieszka stayed at the hotel I went alone to explore and old road along the Meander Canyon of the Colorado river, passed some old Indian petroglyphs and finally arrived at the mine of Potash. The paved highway ended here where potash, a mineral used as a fertilizer, is extracted. I met no people or cars, just a bare but marvelous scenery.

Maciek.

Day 20: The white van. The Canyonlands.

The view from the Dead Horse View Point, The Canyonlands National Park, Utah. From the above one can see the white van down the road ( a small white dot on the dirty road in left down corner ).

The Southern Utah is almost nothing but rocks. Big, red rocks. But it isn´t until you cross interstate 50 that you realize it. We slept in Moab. That day we went to Canyonlands National Park. Our aim was to see the famous maze or the place where Green River joins Colorado river. We crossed the park entrance, paid the fee and went straight to see the best view: The Grand View Point Overlook. Although we have been to Arizona and seen the Grand Canyon a few year ago, we were dazzled. It is hard not to be. To our pleasant surprise there was hardly any visitors but us. Surely the kids started school - I thought.
The view was unbelievably beautiful. The red vastness of red rocks coming sharply down with gorges and steep impenetrable mountain walls. And far down away the brownish meanders of Colorado river. We wondered for a couple of minutes, made many: ohhs and aahs, and drove to next point of view ( the Upheaval Dome Overlook ) and end the trip at the Dead Horse View Point ( above ). We picked a place to sit for a while and just take it all in.


Maciek.

Day 19 - Driving south across Idaho and Utah

We spent the night at a small town of West Yellowstone, Montana. The town itself was quite pretty, with wild west style buildings and, thanks God no burger or pump station emporium anywhere close.

In the morning we got back to our van and headed south. Very soon we entered Idaho and for an hour we drove through the beautiful scenery of Targhee National Forest ( picture above ). Just after Idaho Falls we joined the Interstate 26. Every kilometer south the air got hotter and hotter and the landscape got more half desert-like. After a couple of hours we passed the Idaho-Utah frontier. At Salt Lake City we stopped at Gateway Mall, did some shopping, had a lunch at TacoTime. Salt Lake City is located in the middle of the flat and hot desert surrounded by the high red brown-colored mountain peaks and white salt lakes. We drove passed the white towers of the Mormon Temple in the city center ( pictured above ) and soon we were back on the Interstate.

After Springville we left the Interstate 15 and turned to road 6 going south. The landscape was deserted ( picture above ) and the road seemed to be never-ending. We passed some 'settlements' dotted on our map as towns but they were literally in the form of a gas station, and a few surrounding shacks - and nothing else.

But we were very excited. Soon we were to land at one of the most picturesque corners of the US: the Southern Utah.



Maciek.

Day 18: The Yellowstone National Park ( 3 )

People appearing and disappearing in the thick water vapor rising from the hot lake at the Lower Geyser Basin.

Maciek.

Day 18: Grand Prismatic Spring

Close-up of one of the lava-like mineral-rich streams on the edge of Grand Prismatic Spring.

Grand Prismatic Spring in Yellowstone N.P. is the third largest hot spring on earth ( with water temperature of 160 ºC ) but considered the most fascinating one.

Algae and pigmented bacteria in the microbial mats that grow around the edges of the mineral-rich water spring change color dependent on the ratio of chlorophyll to carotenes produced by these organisms.

( image courtesy of www.nationalgeographic.com )

This is definitely one of the sights you want to see in your lifetime.

Date: August 23rd, 2010.

Maciek.

Day 18: The Yellowstone National Park

The Yellowstone N.P. Midway Basin.

Yellowstone National Park was real fun. Hundreds of geysers, bisons, elks, pelicans, never-ending fountains, waterfalls, deep gorges, hot springs, a mild sulfur smell, beautiful blue lakes and to-the-center-of-the-earth deep ultramarine color water filled caves. We have never been to a place like this. It was a new experience for us.
And the best of all: the colors. Deep blue, ultramarine, green, orange, yellow, all derived from heat-loving microorganisms. All colors were saturated, deep and so not-from-this-world that you wanted to touch them, play with them, just like a child would.

It was a moon-like experience.

That was one of the best days on our trip.


Date: August 23rd, 2010.

Maciek.

Day 17: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming ( part 3 )

The Snake River and a Teton Range panorama. The Grand Teton National Park.

This is a historic spot. One of the most important and influential landscape photographers of the last century, Ansel Adams used to take photos here.

This is my small tribute to this before-the-photoshop-arrived era genius.


Date: August 22nd, 2010.

Maciek.

Day 17: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming ( part 2 )

Later that day we had a nice walk to the Jenny and String lakes, then passed the Snake River dam and drove north. The weather was pleasant.

At one of the view points over the Jackson Lake we stopped. I spotted these two guys on motorcycles also stunned by the Mount Moran panorama light and shadow show.

Guys on motorcycles is a very common site in America as common as RVs. It seems like when guys go out riding, it's a male-bonding thing. Riding bikes together is like a pack, a sense of brotherhood, all for one, one for all kind of thing. I like that. Keep rolling on, brothers !

Maciek.

Day 17: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming ( part 1 )

Schwabacher's Landing. The Grand Teton National Park.

We woke up before the sunrise, had an early bird breakfast at the hotel in Driggs, Idaho and rushed up East in the direction of Jackson Hole. Soon we climbed the Tenton pass ( 2200 m. ) and entered Wyoming. The sun was still rising over the Sheep Mountains. We quickly drove through the Jackson ( one of the most charming American small towns ), paid a fee and entered the Grand Teton National Park. This was the landscape acclaimed one of the most enchanting in the US. There was hard to find a spot that did not dazzle us with beauty, majesty and serenity.

First we stopped at the Antelope Flat road. We had to drive very slowly because our car got surrounded by a horde of bisons ! Then we stopped at Schwabacher's Landing ( above ). This is one of America’s most spectacular viewpoints with the slow moving river that offers beautiful crystal-clear reflections in the early morning. One can often see bison and elk grazing in the sparse fields along the base of the mountain range with its highest peak Grand Tenton soaring over 3000 m above the sea level. Even now, in mid-August a small glacier could be clearly seen.


Date: August 22nd, 2010.

Maciek.

Day 16: The Swan Valley

An old shack in the middle of the Swan Valley, Idaho.

A story behind: Wedover is a strange town. It sits on the Utah / Nevada border in the middle of "nowhere". The "nowhere" is really the middle of Great Basin desert: 700 km of diameter large dnd hot desert.
The eastern part of the town is located in Utah - a state where most of the population belongs to Mormon Church which greatly influences Utah culture and daily life. So it is a quite, normal and a simple good-living small town. The western part of Wendover belongs to Nevada, a state where prostitution, hazard and crime hit the national´s high. 10 cm behind the Nevada-Utah border a huge Nugget Casino rises with its large and blinking colorful sings inviting you to gamble, spend money and join the party.

In the morning we left Wendover and joined Interstate 80. After 45 km we turned north and drove road 233. For the next 160 km we were practically alone on the road and met as many as 2 cars on our way until finally arrived at the gorgeous Sawtooth National Forest and a tiny village of Rosette ( 10 houses and a red brick church ). A couple of miles later we joined Interstate 84 and entered a state of Idaho. We crossed Curlew National Grassland ( "A land of many uses" as the sign was saying ) and drove north to Pocatello. At Pocatello we stopped a at Applebee´s and had a nice lunch. Agnieszka ordered her favorite White Peach Sangria with Sutter Home White Zinfandel to drink. Oh, it was goooood, very good. And this is where America stays at its best: they bring it big, very big, like an almost a liter big glass of sangria so we all could enjoy it.

After lunch we hit the road again. Our surroundings has changed. We soon forgot about hot, flat and desert-like landscapes of Utah and Nevada. Idaho was all about vast grassy planes with woods and rivers and cattle. But it was not until Idaho Falls that the landscape became heavenly beautiful.

The Swan Valley lies between Caribou and Snake River Ranges surrounded by the rocky mountain peaks of 3000 m.
In the middle of the valley we found this old shack standing in-between the corn fields. The sky was made of tiny black and white puzzle-like parts ... I stopped and took a picture. I could feel we were approaching the Tetons National Park, one of the most stunning landscapes in the United States.

Date: August 21st, 2010.

Maciek.

San Francisco: Voted best burgers in America !

Gott´s Roadside: Ferry Building Marketplace.

( courtesy of www.gotts.com )

Gott´s Roadside ( or Taylor´s Automatic Refresher as it was called until lately ) was voted ( by three of us ) the best burgers we have ever eaten in America. Sweet potato fries and milkshakes were also so good !

Date: August 16th, 2010.

Maciek.

San Francisco: China Town

China Town, San Francisco. Corner of Grant and Clay street. A facinating hybrid of American and Cantonese culture.

My first impression of the San Francisco China Town was bad: the district appeared to be a very touristic, overrated, too crowded place selling cheap plastic Buddhas, 2 $ lousy T-shirts and suspicious-looking "health balls".
But when I returned there another and yet another day I slowly found it more and more appealing. It all started in a small shop when we stopped to buy water. I asked the Chinese man at the counter how´s "Thank You" in Chinese. He responded, laughed and we talked. Instantly China Town gained a much more "human" face. Just taste delicious Dim Sum, drop in to see Fortune Cookies factory, admire oriental Renaissance style buildings´ decoration, stroll narrow in between alleys, look for family run restaurants, enjoy card and mahjong players at Yerba Buena and ignore hordes of tourists on the main Grand Avenue.

Xie Xie China Town !

Every street has a double name. One of the most interesting murals: Chinese workers constructing the transcontinental railway in the early XIXth century.

China Town moments.

Date: August 14th, 15th and 16th, 2010.

Maciek

The first days: San Francisco

The city sits on the top of a peninsula, surrounded by waters of the Pacific Ocean.
The Bay Bridge ( above ), photographed at night August 15th, 2010 from San Francisco pier 14, links San Francisco and Berkley.

After a long journey we arrived at San Francisco and moved in to Omni hotel in the heart of the city´s Downtown. The hotel is conveniently located only a couple of steps from the China Town, across the Montgomery street from The Transamerica Pyramid and Wells Fargo Museum. The famous Cable Car California line passes in front of the hotel. It takes only w few of minutes to reach Embarcadero and Ferry Building or the Union Square.

This is the story that begins our 7th visit to the US and our first time in San Francisco. The place is one of the United States’ most striking and amazing cities: the hills, cable cars, the bay with its bridges and the famous fog ( the latter we found less agreeable: the fog was absent only a few hours around midday giving some unpleasant chill for the most of the day ). But there is more to the city: throw in the uniquely charming architecture, world-class restaurants, a vibrant multicultural mix and you get the place with its in and outs worth exploring.

After dark I went to the Embarcadero and Pier 14. It was rather cold. The breeze was blowing from the ocean. The low, fast-moving clouds were illuminated by the lights of the city of Berkley located on the other side of the bay.

Location: The Embarcadero street, pier 14, San Francisco.

Gear: Nikon D80, Tamron 28-75 mm

Aperture: f/28

Shutter speed: 10 sec

Focal Length: 30 mm

ISO: 400

Date: August 15th 2010. 21.16 h.

Maciek.